Product name: UPA 15-90 160 Product No: 59539520 EAN number: 171 Technical Speed no: 1 Head max: 90 dm TF class: 60 Materials Pump housing: Cast iron Impeller: PP Composit Installation Maximum operating pressure: 6 bar Pipe connection: 3/4 Port-to-port length: 160 mm Liquid Pumped liquid: Water Liquid temperature range: 2. 60 °C Liquid temperature during operation: 60 °C Density: 983.2 kg/m³ Electrical data Max. Power input: 120 W Mains frequency: 60 Hz Rated voltage: 1 x 127 V Current in speed 3: 1 A Capacitor size - run: 10 µF Enclosure class (IEC 34-5): X2D Insulation class (IEC 85): F Motor protec: NONE Thermal protec: Impedance protected Others Gross weight: 2.7 kg Shipping volume: 0.004 m³ Country code: MX.
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Hi There, In my bathroom I have installed a bath/shower mixer tap with a chrome rigid riser going upto a wall mounted shower head. The tap was billed as a low pressure tap (0.2 bar) and while I knew the shower pressure wouldn't be immense I was expecting a fairly usable shower.
UPA 15-90, UPA 15-120 and UPA 120 circulator pumps increase the pressure in order to make the required pressure available at showers, taps and other tapping points of domestic water. UPA 15-90, UPA 15-120 and UPA 120 circulator pumps are used in open systems and can also be connected directly to the water main.
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Problem is despite the loft tank being c2.5 metres above the bath, the hot water pressure is insufficient to prevent the mixer tap from diverting the flow back to the bath when you are trying to use the shower (diverter button on tap drops back down). This applies even when attaching a temporary shower head and using it at the level of the taps rather than the shower riser height. I can hold the button up and get an ok flow but obviously that is not practical. After a bit of googling I have discovered the Grundfos UPA 15 90 Booster Pump with flow switch. This claims to boost pressure by 0.5 to 0.75 bar which sounds ideal as it should be sufficient for my needs and for c£100 should see me through until the boiler is replaced with a combi somewhere down the line. My question is can this pump be simply installed with adjacent isolating valves alongside the hot cylinder as per the attached sketch without causing water to be pumped back up the overflow pipe or are there other pipework modifications required? Thanks jackthom.
Pretty sure that the bath cold tap is not fed from the loft tank (the pipework under the bathroom floor also has the toilet and basin on the same cold pipe as the bath and is 15mm not 22mm like the hot pipe for the bath). All the same I'll check it out when I get home. Is there not a risk that if the top of the flange goes straight to the vent and no water is supplied from that connection that whole pipe will be full of air which will still get through despite the flange.
I far as I can ascertain the typical use of a surrey flange is where one output supplies the rest of the house with a vent and the other output supplies a shower pump only. Is there not a similar fitting I could attach in line with the pump (below the T on the right hand side of my sketch) so that it is below the top of the cylinder and full of water? Alternatively can I not just install the pump in the feed from the cold tank to the hot water cylinder thereby removing the complication of the nearby vent? Thanks jackthom as an update i have now checked and the cold supply to the bath is definately direct from the mains, visually the header tank supplies the hot water cylinder only.
As a double check the supply to the bath cannot be from a tank as it stops immediately when the main stopcock under the kitchen sink is closed. Just need to pluck up the courage to do the work now. I take it the surrey flange is the only viable option and i cant just maintain the current configuration and install an auto air vent above the pump to do the same job and minimise the work required?